Week 6

Hello all! The following was constructed throughout the week - enjoy!

Today I went to the post office as I'd received notification that I had a package waiting. I tried to get a few people to go with me, as being one of only two women in the entire area in my demographic tends to draw a lot of attention. I went to the post, got my humongous box (thank you Caitie!!!) and then headed to Pep store (the local clothing/cell phone/dishwashing detergent etc. depot). On the way I passed a large cow head, looking rather forlorn having been abandoned on the side of the taxi rink. I should say I hope it was abandoned, as it was covered in flies and partially black, as if it had either started to rot or had been in a fire. I was somewhat surprised though because I thought a cow's head might be a hot commodity – and yet there it sat. Just as I passed it, yielding my big box, I ran into the guy who professes love to me every time I go to Pep store to buy airtime for my phone. I think after our first three interactions and my repeated unwillingness to give him my number, we have found a happy medium and I no longer dread running into him. After getting my airtime I started the walk home, and realized as I passed a number of Gogos (grandmas) with various items on their head – blankets, boxes, wash tubs etc. – just how much sense that makes! When I got to a flat spot I carefully put the box on my head, and while I couldn't manage without using my hands to balance it, I walked most of the rest of the way as such. I also ran into one of my outreach workers who went back to his nursing job a few weeks ago after a local strike ended, and it was nice to feel like I was running into a neighbor around town.



Other "local" like activities this week included trying a local root vegetable that looks like a little ball of dirt before you peel the outside off and discover the not unpleasant taste somewhat like a cross between a potato and a turnip. I also finally found out what the dime-sized red mark on my right arm is. At first I thought it was a spider bite – but it was kind of peeling a little and it wasn't going away. Today Sr. Ellen told me with a twinkle in her eye that it's ring worm. Enter Mike Meyers and Coffee Talk, "I'll give you a topic, Ring Worm – it's neither a ring, nor a worm – Discuss." Thank God it's NOT in fact a worm – it's just called that because around the edge of the circle (the "ring" if you will) it kind of puffs up the first few days. It's actually a fungus, so I'm applying fungicide 3x a day. I figure I can deal as long as there are no actual worms involved, and it kind of makes me feel like I've been initiated into the craziness of the health situation here. Sr. Ellen says I've gotten it from one of the kids (which makes sense as it's on my arm which is frequently tugged on and grabbed by any number of little people) but not to worry about anything else having been transmitted with it (big sigh of relief).



This past weekend I went to Jo'burg with Ryan (the social worker) and absolutely loved the city. Jo'burg has a reputation for being an extremely dangerous city, so imagine my surprise when we pulled into an absolutely lovely suburb of tree-lined streets and beautiful houses. Of course safety is an issue, so all the houses have protective "walls" out front and many have bars on the windows – but the architecture is gorgeous and there are some really beautiful areas. I never felt unsafe – but I of course took many precautions, and was being shown around with someone who grew up in Jo'burg and knew what areas to avoid. Regardless, it was nice to get past the tourist warnings and experience all that the city had to offer. We had a marathon visit to the Apartheid museum before and even longer marathon watching of the cricket world cup. The most poignant part of the Apartheid museum for me came at the end, when after seeing picture upon picture of human brutality at its worst, reading about the injustices only humans seem able to inflict on each other and tracing the ongoing struggle for equality, the final signage says something along the lines of, "Take a moment to contemplate what you have seen, then walk away free."



Regarding the cricket. Good lord I am thankful this isn't popular in the U.S. I have barely got a grip on baseball, and throw something into the mix with sticky wickets, LBW's (leg before wicket), 4 and 6 point shots and OH YAH – the "short" version of the game being 5 and a half hours (!?) and you've lost me completely. Thankfully our world cup viewing party also included a Braai (traditional South African barbecue) and some of my first exposure to high speed internet in this country. You can thank that for some actual pictures posted on my Flickr account here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/64116215@N00/ . I didn't get all the pics I'd hoped uploaded but this should give you a better idea of what Nkandla is like!



We rounded out our time in Jo'burg with a trip to Soweto and the Hector Peterson Memorial. Hector Peterson was a 13 year old boy who was shot during student protests against mandated curriculum changes to teach in Afrikaans in 1973. Students were facing the requirement to learn two languages simultaneously (English and Afrikaans) – some already years into their schooling. Failing grades and an inability to engage in their education led black students to protest, and as a byproduct of such actions, it was children who ended up playing major activist roles in years to come. The profound reality you walk away with after visiting such museums and learning about the history is just how much is still left to be done, and how very recent these struggles were. In Soweto, most residents still know of someone killed during the riots in the 70's, 80's and 90's – many of whom were children. At the Apartheid museum, every time you thought things were getting better, a whole new range of policies would be put into affect, and more fighting would ensue.


I had a fantastic opportunity to discuss the effects of such history and the ongoing struggle for true equality when I met with a former journalist and current spokesperson for the Minister of the Department of Arts and Culture, Sandile Memela. I was put in touch with Sandile by a friend of a friend who did a two-year Peace Corps stint in South Africa. It was great to meet with an individual who can trace his family history through the struggle years of apartheid, and who has achieved great success despite the prejudices faced in those years (and unfortunately to this day). Sandile has put me in touch with some of his co-workers who I will be hoping to meet with in a few weeks en route to Nairobi, where I'll fly out from. I will be submitting to them a proposal for a new women's initiative in Nkandla which is very exciting. This weekend I'll further my research on such initiatives with a visit to Ingwavuma on the border of Swaziland where a woman named Maryna Heese directs a project of 300 women producing beadwork, weaving and stitched pictures. I can't wait!



Thank you all for sharing this trip with me in my weekly updates (my form of journaling) and for those of you who have sent goodies for both me and the kids. I got an amazing box of holographic mobiles, stickers and sparkly wands from my sister-in-law's aunt a couple of days ago – I absolutely can't wait to decorate the kids' rooms. Caitie's box today was chock full of puzzles, games and cards – things the kids will absolutely love (a few actually dug into the puzzles in my room tonight after dinner). And the tips and contacts provided by Aliona, Megan Scott, Kevin Smith and Lilian Were (to name only a few!) have been invaluable. It makes the whole experience so much richer for me to know that it doesn't end with me - that I get to share it with all of you.

Until next week,

Megan

P.S. Additional Kudos go to Ryan and his family for hosting me this weekend (and treating me to my very first hot crossed buns)!